Italy travel tips

Travel through Italy and you'll experience a blend of the modern industrial Italian nation and the cosmopolitan, mediterranean, passionate vibe of a culture steeped in history.

Italy's famous fashion, culture, architecture, style, food and image will envelop you as you travel through different parts of the country, but elsewhere you can enjoy its traditional rural ambience.

Wherever you are in Italy, you won't be far from an historic monument dating back to or before the Roman Empire.

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Italy's economic success has seen travel prices soar in recent years.

Travel tip ... as a rule of thumb, travel in Italy is cheaper in the south than in the north.

Hotel rooms and other accommodation prices can be astronomical in northern travel hotspots such as Venice, Florence and Milan.

Travel and hotel prices in Sicily are a little more affordable.

In 2005, a cheap meal in Italy would normally set you back between US$8 and US$15.

Both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks are mostly expensive, although wine is fairly cheap.

Again, prices are generally higher in the northern cities where it can be a bit more difficult for travelers to find a cheap eatery.

Train and bus travel isn't dirt cheap but it's affordable. As an example, a train trip from Venice to Rome in 2007 costs about US$58 (buy tickets at www.trenitalia.com).

Hotel prices in most of Italy are also fairly expensive. The cheapest one star hotel room you can hope to find, probably in the south of Italy, will cost at least US$30 per night.

Accommodation prices in the north of Italy are usually about 50% higher.

If you travel in central Italy you can survive on as little as US$50 per day, but it probably won't be comfortable.

Travel tip ... Monastery Stays provides a great way to cut your travel expenses by staying at monasteries and convent guest houses throughout Italy, offering a unique slice of authentic Italian life in idyllic locations across all regions.

Budget at least another US$30 per day if you want "luxuries" in your holiday travel such as museums and a respectable restaurant meal each day. Be mindful that many restaurants don't open till 7.30pm and, if you go to a cafe, order your coffee "caldo" - otherwise it'll be lukewarm.

Again, prices are a little cheaper in the south of Italy and more expensive in the north.

Travel tip ... be mindful that during the peak holiday season of July and August you'll be faced with more expensive hotel tariffs as Italian holiday-makers and international tourists compete for accommodation.

Travel tip ... Italy now has a terrorism law requiring everybody who wants to use public internet facilities (e.g. cafes) must produce their passport for photocopying and agree to have their web movements tracked. In other words, make sure you have your passport with you if you go to an internet cafe. The same terrorism laws apply to the use of other public communication facilities such as telephone and fax.

Italy's currency has been the euro instead of the lire since the beginning of 2002.

Visa, American Express and Mastercard are accepted almost everywhere you travel in Italy. Automatic Teller Machines (called bancomats) which accept credit or debit cards are found even in small towns.

Italy's capital of Rome (population 2.7 million) is a feast of historical monuments from the Roman Empire. The Sistine Chapel is a highlight with Michelangelo's Genesis on the barrel-vaulted ceiling and The Last Judgement on the chapel's end wall.

Rome, said by many to be the most beautiful city in the world, has far too many galleries, churches, ruins, castles, tombs, monuments and museums for even a native Roman to absorb in a lifetime, so tourists can only expect to see a fraction of what's on offer during an average holiday. Be aware that Rome suffers a constant traffic tangle that challenges all but the most foolhardy of tourists driving a rental car. Many Romans use motorino scooters which tourists can conveniently hire (as well as bicycles) from Bici e Baci at 5 via del Viminale near the train station.

The City of Rome has introduced a new Roma Pass which can help tourists navigate the many ancient artefacts, churches and musuems. The pass costs 18 euros and includes three days on public transport, limited free entry without queues, a map of Rome, a city guide and a program of tourist services and events.

It's essential while in Rome to visit the enormous Vatican, but be prepared for crowds, long queues and laborious security checks. The Vatican crowds are much smaller in winter.

Note that there are formalities required when inside the Vatican ... e.g. don't wear a hat, don't use a flash on your camera and try to be quiet. It's worth taking a magnification lens such as opera glasses so you can see the intimate beauty of the many artworks adorning the ceilings of the Vatican. The Vatican Museums open at 10am but queues often start forming at the doors from 8am (museum entrance 14 euros for adults and 8 euros for children in 2008). Set aside a full day to see the museums, the Raphael rooms, the Sistine Chapel and St Peter's Basilica. An audio guide can be purchased from a desk downstairs near the basilica entrance (about 5 euro in 2008). It's possible to be with the Pope at his free public group audiences every Wednesday at 10.30am, bookings at the Vatican website.

The "must-see" tourist attractions in Rome are the Coliseum (expect queues), the Roman Forum and the Pantheon built more than 1800 years ago.

One of Rome's most popular attractions is the glorious Trevi Fountain, completed in 1762 and located in the heart of Rome's centro storico (historic centre) - although locals have been complaining that the site has become overcrowded and polluted, and the water isn't safe to drink. Legend has it that whoever throws money into the Trevi Fountain will return to Rome and more than $US4000 is tossed in every day to be collected and used to subsidise a supermarket for poor people.

Rome is dissected by the algae-ridden Tiber River.

If you travel to Rome during summer, you can enjoy the annual festival known as Estate Romana, or Roman Summer, including:

Some of the less-known historic ruins in Rome include the Terme di Caracalla, which was once a massive cathedral of bath houses, and the gloomy catacombs beneath Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura. Some of Rome's best classical masterpieces can be found at Palazzo Massimo (1 Largo di Villa Peretti) and a hide-away of the best art galleries can be found in via Margutta.

The frescoed palace of Emperor Augustus on Palatine Hill, one of Rome's famous seven hills, was partially reopened to the public from March 2008. The palace, built in the 1st century BC, has been under restoration since the 1980s. Experts have spent more than 12 million euros restoring the palace's porticoed garden and piecing together frescoes. Groups of up to ten people will be guided through restored areas of the palace.

Legend has it that Rome was founded on April 21, 743BC, by Romulus and Remus - the twins sons of Mars, the god of war. A fun time to travel to the city is during its April birthday, when Romans dress up in ancient clothes and parade the streets. This annual event is known as The Christmas of Rome.

A taxi fare from Rome's Fiumicino Airport into the central city usually costs more than US$50 and a Leonardo Express train trip (costing about $US11) takes 32 minutes. Rome's crowded central Termini railway station is within walking distance of much of the city's accommodation. However, the Termini is noisy and has some seedy nearby areas.

Public transport throughout Italy is reliable and reasonably cheap, as are taxis away from tourists areas where hawkers are rife.

Travel tip ...just over 30 minutes from Rome is the ancient holiday retreat of Sabina, overlooked by most visitors and tour itineraries but nevertheless one of the most serene, lush and beautiful places in Italy. The district is dotted with vines, olive groves, ruins and medieval towns such as Caperia. Sabina is also ideally located to explore Rome and surrounding regions such as Umbria and Tuscany.

Thousands of years of monumental and architectural history can be seen in different regions throughout Italy.

Tuscany is exceptionally rich and the region boasts a magnificent rolling landscape as well as international culture and art capitals such as Florence.

Tuscany is dotted with luxuriant beech forests, cedars, chestnut groves, vineyards, hot springs, olive groves and villages, some with 3,000 years of architectural and archeological history.

The Tuscan city of Pisa is internationally famous for its leaning tower, which sank into the soft moor ground during its 11th Century construction - a fate shared by various other Pisa buildings such as the tower of the San Nicola Church. A major rescue operation has strengthened the Leaning Tower of Pisa, which has been staightened by 36.8 centimetres and is expected to now remain stable for at least the next 300 years. After admiring the Leaning Tower of Pisa, tourists should also visit surrounding buildings such as the Santa Maria Assunta cathedral and the Camposanto, which houses ancient frescoes recovered from bombing during World War II. Holiday-makers in Pisa should also reserve time to visit the Museo delle Opera del Duomo and the Museo delle Sinopie. Of interest, the world's oldest botanic gardens can be admired in the grounds of the city's university.

The only real mountain in Tuscany is Monte Amiata, an ancient 1,734 metre volcano surrounded by medieval villages and lush crops of trees, fruit, grapes and olives growing in rich soil heated by the remaining warmth of the volcano. The mountain is covered by one of Europe's largest beech forests.

Because of its popular beauty, the Tuscan region has in some areas been overrun by tourism, with never-ending coach loads of travellers making it difficult to find rural seclusion or a peaceful cafe. The region's quietest area is well south of Florence, about two hours by car from Rome or Florence past Siena, towards the Val d'Orcia. While the Chianti region between the two major cities is known for its rugged woods and vineyards, the Val d'Orcia has undulating hills carpeted with barley and far fewer trees. Most accommodation in the Val d'Orcia district is on working farms or small village apartments, as there are few large hotels. Val d'Orcia was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2004 due to its well-preserved Renaissance beauty. A landmark of the district is the Abbazia di Sant'Antimo, a large Romanesque church dating from the 12th century sitting alone amid the hills, chanting monks drawing crowds several times a day.

Travel through this area can be crowded because it's a tourist holiday hotspot. In 2008, authorities announced that up to 1,000 tourists a year will be allowed to visit the tiny, famous Tuscan island of Montecristo, 64 kilometres off the Italian coast and 35 kilometres south of Elba. Visits will be allowed from August 31 to July 15 2008 and thereafter from August 31 to the end of October each year. For almost 40 years, Montecristo has been preserved as an exclusive nature reserve. Would-be visitors must book years in advance and be prepared to attend environmental lectures the day before their visit.

The Appenine Mountains boast spectacular countryside and a popular tourist target is Verona, considered one of Italy's most beautiful cities. Verona has been described as a small version of Rome and has an ancient amphitheatre, fine piazzas and imposing churches, as well as Casa di Giulietta where Juliet is said to have called to Romeo from a her balcony.

Travel through Italy provides a choice between the cultured north with its high fashion, refined living and high prices, or the more laid-back, rural ambience of the south.

The lower six regions of Italy are officially known as the Mezzogiorno and this region has 14 sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Southern Italy is always less crowded than the north but has a reputedly higher crime rate.

The Puglia region has more than 800 kilometres of coast fronting the Adriatic and Ionian seas, including the Natural Maritime Reserve of Torre Guaceto just north of Brindisi. Puglia is renowned for its stunning beaches, deep seas for diving, comparative lack of tourists, friendly locals and unique homes called the trullo - a rural abode that is basically a whitewashed tepee of limestone slabs stacked without mortar and with a cone roof topped by pagan or religious symbols dating back to the Middle Ages.

Tourists should note that bird flu was first detected in the Puglia, Calabria and Sicily regions in February 2006, with no human infections.

Almost everywhere in Italy you'll find a sun-drenched landscape peppered with fields, grape vines, olives and poplar trees, as has been the case for thousands of years.

The cities of Turin and Milan, about 140 kilometres apart in Italy's north-west, are both wealthy and culturally flamboyant.

Milan is Italy's most populous city and is a hub for commerce and fashion. The 2006 Olympic Winter Games were staged in Turin, drawing tens of thousands of tourists to the north-west of Italy with economic spinoffs for the next few years. Turin was for decades a tourism backwater dominated by the Fiat motor company and sprawling, ugly factories. However, this city of just under one million people has been reinventing itself with new hotels, infrastructure and exhibition venues, much under the watchful eye of world-renowned architects. Turin has a French flavour and, with its 18 million square kilometres of parkland, 300 kilometres of tree-lined streets, four rivers, grand piazzas and elegant shopping arcades, is a city worth exploring by foot. Turin's 2006 Olympic Stadium is nowadays shared by the city's two football teams, Juventus and Torino. In 2008, Turin was named the first world design capital.

The ancient Roman town of Como, about half an hour's drive north of Milan (50 minutes by train), has long been noted for its warm, comfortable climate. Como is world-renowned for its silk fabrics and has a magnificent cathedral that took 350 years to complete after work began in 1396. Como is a medieval town with a blend of narrow houses, market stalls, bars and trendy boutiques. A drawcard is Como's funicular railway, which rises 700 metres above the city to provide panoramic views of Lake Como and the Italian Alps. The railway is open from 6am to 10pm and a return trip cost about four euros in 2007.

Lake Como, with its backdrop of snow-capped Alpine peaks, is a picturesque body of water with regular public ferries to its numerous shoreside villages. All-day ferry tickets cost around 16 euros in 2007. The lakeside town of Bellagio is described in some travel guide books as the prettiest town in Europe. Bellagio has narrow, steep streets, bustling shops and lakeside cafes, and has about 150,000 visitors every year. Other famous lakeside towns include Menaggio, Tremezzo and Cadenabbia. The region enjoys a mild, temperate climate. At 400 metres, the Y-shaped Lake Como is 46 kilometres long and 146 kilometres wide, and is the deepest lake in the region. This glacial lake has long been a magnet for European nobility and global celebrities, and is surrounded by countless spectacular villas, one of the most famous being Villa Balbianello which has featured in various movies including the Star Wars and Bond adventures. Don't expect cheap hotel rates around Lake Como, where George Clooney often holidays at his lakeside villa.

Italy's northern province of Alto Adige borders Austria and has a magnificent landscape and climate. Crumbling castles dot Alto Adige, the farms and villages are picturesque and the locals are more welcoming than elsewhere in Italy. In 2008, some 500,000 people lived in the province and about 75% speak a German dialect. Apple trees and vineyards carpet the valleys and ridges running up to the snow-capped Dolomite Mountains, and the area attracts few international travellers.

In the north-east corner of Italy is the region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, sharing borders and cultures with Austria and Slovenia. This region is where three great European cultures - Latin, Germanic and Slavic - come together, and its history has seen sovereignty among several empires. The Friuli Venezia Giulia is also laced with geological fault lines and a series of earthquakes in 1976 flattened 11 alpine villages with a heavy loss of life. The regional capital is Trieste and picturesque, elevated towns and villages worth visiting include Sauris, Sutrio and Gemona. Many tourists in the region find accommodation within albergo diffuso, scattered apartments and homes that allow an intimate local experience at a reasonable price. The highlands of Friuli Venezia Giulia are cold but ideal for skiing

The coastal province of Liguria to the south is the so-called Italian Riviera and is overflowing with tourists during summer.

Naples in the south of Italy is a beautiful city and nearby are ancient sites such as Pompeii. It's worth noting that, in 2004, authorities decided to offer police protection for organised tour parties against teenage gangs in Naples, where juvenile crime rates have been soaring.

As of August 2008 and to tackle street crime, the Italian Government has authorised army troops to begin patrolling from 6pm to 2am in the cities of Rome, Milan, Naples, Florence, Genoa, Bologna, Turin, Palermo, Bari and Venice. The 2500 troops will patrol alongside regular police and paramilitary for at least six months.

Beware of bag snatchers known to cruise the Naples back alleys on Vespa motor scooters. The roads of Naples are a maze and road rules are often treated with disdain.

Naples has slum areas within which there have long been difficulties with garbage disposal. In May 2007, residents started burning their garbage in the streets, fouling the city's air with smoke and the smell of decomposing rubbish.

For the best view of Naples' sprawling metropolis, travel to the hilltop suburb of Vomero - an elite neighbourhood separated from the never-ending hustle and bustle of the city below. Pizzas are an authentic and cheap food source for budget travel in Naples and the cheapest, cleanest and safest accommodation can be found in a Christian convent.

While travelling in Naples it's worth visiting the nearby stylish islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida less than 90 minutes away in the Gulf of Naples, particularly if you're fairly wealthy.

Ischia is the largest island in the Gulf of Naples and for more than 2000 years people have been heading there to take advantage of its therapeutic, mineral-rich volcanic springs. The hot waters contain high levels of mineral salt, sulphur and magnesium, and are said to cure arthritis, asthma, infertility and a host of other ailments. Ischia is a volcanic island dominated by Mt Epomeo and is popular among German tourists in particular. The island is a 45 minute ferry ride from Naples.

The National Archeological Museum in Naples is overflowing with antiquities and is considered one of the best museums in Europe.

Note: The waste dumps of Naples have overflowed at the end of 2007, resulting in more than 110,000 tonnes of rubbish rotting in many of the city's streets. The unsightly garbage has a foul smell and in January 2008 authorities declared they wish to clear up the mess and find a solution to the waste crisis within four months. In February 2008, the European Union gave the Italian Government one month to clean up the garbage in Naples.

Nearby Pompeii (25km to the south-east) allows intimate tourist access to the restored villages and homes buried by the volcano in AD79.

About two hours' drive south of Naples is the Cilento region, one of the most remote parts of Campania and much cheaper than visiting the Amalfi coast. The area is covered by the Cilento National Park, the second largest in Italy, with about 100 kilometres of coastline and a mountainous interior dotted with historic villages and a traditional culture. Towns and villages worth visiting in the Cilento region include Castellabate, Santa Maria di Catellabate, San Marco di Catellabate, Acciaroli, Palinuro and the 13th century settlement of Maratea. Sites worth visiting in the region include ancient Paestum (originally Poseidonia), founded in the 7th century and boasting some of the best preserved Greek temples in Europe, and the sprawling Certosa di San Lorenzo monastery which started construction in the 14th century.

Mt Vesuvius is an active, menacing volcano that last erupted in 1944 and it's well worth walking the crater rim to admire the slumbering, steaming lava pit below. Pompeii usually attracts large crowds of tourists. More than 45 hectares of the city have been excavated and in some spots fully restored. The Pompeii complex opens at 8.30am and closes an hour before sunset with trains from Rome, Naples and Sorrento depositing travellers at the Villa dei Misteri station within 100 metres of the city gates. Trains to Pompeii run direct from the Circumvesuviana railway station beside the central station in Naples. Adult entry to Pompeii in 2007 was 11 euros. UNESCO figures show the Pompeii ruins are visited by more than 2.6 million tourists every year, although crowd numbers have dropped in 2008 partly because of the garbage collection and crime problems that have deterred many visitors from nearby Naples.

Another highly recommended district for travellers is Valnerina, a 70km stretch of valleys forged by the River Nera in the district of Umbria, where hikers on mountainous paths can soak up magnificent views, huge waterfalls, limestone gorges, wildflowers and medieval hilltop fortresses.

Also within the Umbria district is the town of Assisi, famous as the birthplace of St Francis. Assisi is 424 metres above sea level, about 75 kilometres north of Rome and has a population around 6000. The town, which is spotlessly clean and without graffiti, is pedestrian-friendly and boasts a myriad churches, gift shops, restaurants, bars, art galleries and antique dealers. You'll find plenty of shops specialising in gourmet food, wine, chocolate or olive oil. The town's main square is Piazza del Comune and landmarks include the Basilica of St Francis, which holds his remains. Assisi has many lanes in which to get lost and it's well worth seeing the 15th century colonnade of Piazzale Inferiore di San Franceso. Assisi locals are mostly friendly toward tourists.

Italy has five national parks with abundant wildlife and a common Italian preoccupation is skiing or a similar winter sport.

The south, or boot, of Italy is the most sparse and flat but its remote beaches are sandy and pleasant. The Aspromonte National Park in the province of Reggio Calabria on the tip of the southern toe of Italy has few travelers and no hotels.

This southern territory is wild and largely inaccessible but has numerous attractions such as Norman castle ruins, waterfalls and tiny mountain villages forgotten by time. Accommodation can be found in private homes. The southern Calabria region is hot and arid yet spectacular and is a neglected tourist area in which you can enjoy a remote Italian adventure where few other tourists have been.

The southern island of Sicily off the toe of Italy also has excellent beaches and glorious scenery, more than 80% of the landscape being mountainous, as well as a unique culture with African undertones. Be aware that the narrow alleyways of Sicily demand a small car and the locals are fairly contemptuous of road rules. A popular Sicilian resort is the coastal town of Taormina, just south of the Straits of Messina with a backdrop of mountains and the smoking volcano Mt Etna perched on the horizon. Mt Etna, which is Europe's tallest volcano at 3,295 metres, rumbled back into life in May 2008 with some minor eruptions hurling ash into the air, but the region remains safe. Etna covers a huge area and although the volcanic debris resembles an ugly moonscape, it is well worth visiting. You're likely to see huge numbers of ladybirds, which are believed to breed in the lava. Snow often settles on the volcano during winter in sufficient quantity and quality for skiing. A cableway carries tourists some of the way up Mt Etna, which is much easier than trying to walk up the solidified lava. The origins of the nearby town Taormina date back to 400BC and its rulers have been Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Saracens, Arabs, Normans and Spaniards. The town's beaches on the Ionian Sea are spectacular. The town caters for both rich tourists and poor backpackers, offering affordable or luxuriant accommodation for both, and provides a well-located base from which to explore the rest of the 25,460 square kilometre island of Sicily. Taormina can be accessed via highways (autostradas) from Messina to the north and Catania to the south.

The west coast of Sicily has an Arabic culture and is nowhere as near popular as the east coast, which was colonised by the Greeks. Palermo, a former capital of the Normans who invaded Sicily in 1071, is considered the most attractive city in western Sicily with its staple of ornately decorated 18th century houses, palaces and churches - many in decay.

Italy's climate is tailor-made for holiday travel with summer months mostly warm to dry and winters mild.

There are strong regional and latitude differences, the mountainous areas and the north of Italy usually cooler than in the south.

Summers can be hot and dry in southern coastal areas. In Rome, the average January temperature is 7.4C and the average in July is 25.7C.

Tourists cram into most popular holiday spots in July and August.

Travel tip ... to avoid the crowds and the hot weather, a more comfortable time to travel is from April to mid-June or in September and October.

Most beaches are pleasant to swim from May to September.

Italy's southern landscape is not as picturesque as in the north but boasts unspoiled coastlines and some great beaches.

The stunning Divina Costiera (Divine Coast) harbours ancient and charming fishing towns such as Sorrento, Positano, Ravello and Amalfi. The region's white cliffs and azure waters make this one of Italy's most popular tourist destinations.

The lemon-scented south-east Amalfi coast is one of the world's most dramatic and beautiful. Towns such as Positano and Amalfi are romantic snapshots from centuries past, their steep landscapes making it difficult to build. Positano, with a population of less than 4000, is a vertical rather than horizontal town and has a charming facade of ice-cream coloured houses. The best time to visit is spring and autumn. Summer dusk lasts till almost 9pm.

The serene, traffic-free town of Ravello has charmed numerous writers, musicians, actors and painters over the years, including Arturo Toscanini, Leonard Bernstein, Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence and Greta Garbo.

Travel Tip: Probably the cheapest, most secluded and unpretentious town along the Amalfi Coast is Praiano.

The town of Amalfi was once a great naval power but was largely destroyed by an earthquake in 1343, and boasts arguably the most beautiful cathedral in southern Italy. Hotel rates in the district are very expensive and the cheapest alternative is a room in a private home for as little as US$20 per night.

Prices throughout the Amalfi Coast are exorbitant and its best to use buses as the cheapest way to travel the coastal road. The towns of Positano and Ravello are particularly expensive and gauche. A much cheaper alternative destination is the small nearby coastal town of Atrani, home to less than a thousand people but much more authentic than Amalfi.

A popular journey for visitors to the Amalfi Coast is the Grotta dello Smeraldo, a spectacular sea cave to the west of Cape Conca Bay and about five kilometres from the town of Amalfi. The Grotta dello Smeraldo, accessible via a lift down a cliff face, is an immense cavern with cool temperatures, a green subterranean light and stalactites piercing down from the domed roof of the cave - which is 24 metres high, 30 metres wide and 60 metres long. Entry to the cave in 2009 is five euro.

In Italy's north-west La Spezia province about 500 kilometres from Rome is the Ligurian coast and its famous Cinque Terre walk between the five villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. The Sentiero Azzurro walk along clifftop stone paths provides an intimate look at this magnificent stretch of coastline. The walk will take a full day unless you are very fit and is most enjoyable in Autumn or Spring. Each of the five picturesque villages has its own character and the Cinque Terre has unique cuisine and wines. The villages can be reached by car or ferry but the cheapest and most convenient way to travel to the coast is via train from Santa Margherita, which takes less than an hour. This coastal strip is within Cinque Terre National Park and the entry fee in 2010 was five euros per day. The villages themselves are all joined by rail with regular hourly trains and a coastal ferry service also calls at each village. There is plenty of accommodation, mostly rental apartments, although there are hostels in Manarola and Riomaggiore and hotels in Monterosso. Many travellers enjoy walking the average 15 kilometres between villages over a week, meandering through stone-walled vineyards and olive groves and stopping in each to relax during the latter part of each day - experienced walkers recommend starting at Riomaggiore and walking north. Manarola, the oldest of the five villages, is set around an ancient gothic church, boasts a clutter of apricot and sun-yellow apartments, and has a quieter ambience than the other villages. Corniglia is surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, and has a great selection of tiny bars and restaurants. Vernazza boasts a castle perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean. Monterosso has a slightly more modern character and is dominated by a long coastal boardwalk. Flat shoes and water are essential for the Sentiero Azzurro walk, which is through fairly harsh terrain. The most difficult section is around Monterosso and Vernazza, where the paths and stairs are narrower and steeper. Plenty of hikers from around the world can be met while walking or resting in the villages, creating a cosmopolitan social vibe. Most of the cafes and restaurants along the Cinque Terre serve delicious local foods. More adventurous hikers can enjoy a 40 kilometre continuation of the Sentiero Azzurro as it winds inland and higher through forest, boasting spectacular views.

The Italian Riviera is a narrow coastal strip running from the French border at Ventmiglia south to La Spezia on the Ligurian-Tuscan frontier. The Riviera is famous for its mild climate, idyllic fishing ports and superb landscape. The major port of the Riviera is Genoa but the most alluring is Portofino, a tiny fishing village with about 700 residents on a rocky promontory carpeted with cypress, pines and palms. More than 2000 years ago, Portofino was a garrison town for the Byzantine fleet of the Roman Empire, and other rulers have included the Benedictines and the City of Genoa. Portofino has been a recluse for the rich and famous for decades, many at the Hotel Splendido, and the village is expensive.

Italy is at its cosmopolitan best in the north, particularly in the rich regions of Piemonte and Lombardy where the skyline is dominated by mountains, the landscape is picturesque and popular activities are skiing and hiking.

In the central north of Italy is the picturesque town of Parma, dating back to 1500BC and now home to about 180,000 people. Worth seeing in Parma is the Piazza della Pilotta which encompasses a concert hall, archeological museum, art school and library.

The central Abruzzo region about 250 kilometres east of Rome extends from the Adriatic, encompassing the rugged Apennine Mountains, and is never inundated with tourists. Abruzzo has vast tracts of untouched national parkland still populated by a small number of brown bears and wolves. Regional towns are often medieval settlements on rocky outcrops and the area is devoid of roadside signs and supermarkets. The mountain slopes are carpeted with olive groves and vineyards, and flocks of sheep fill the paddocks.

Note: An earthquake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale devastated the Abruzzo region on April 6, 2009, killing almost 300 people and leaving about 100,000 homeless. The medieval city of L'Aquila was rocked, as were outlying villages such as Onna and Castelnuovo, and about 15,000 buildings were destroyed or damaged. The quake zone was declared a disaster area and tourists in Italy should be aware the region will probably be affected for several years.

If your holiday travel takes you to the east coast of Italy, a treasure trove of sights can be found in the town of Ancona, south of Venice. Without the major tourist crowds and queues of other major Italian cities, you can admire the 12th Century Cathedral of San Ciriaco or explore a Roman amphitheatre, a superb archaeologcal museum and Ancona churches which boast artwork by greats such as Titan.

The glamour island of Capri off Italy's west coast in the Tyrrrhenian Sea is accessed from the mainland town of Sorrento. Budget travellers should make the crossing on the slower but cheaper and more scenic ferry instead of the Capri hydrofoil. The island is just six kilometres long, its eastern half dominated by Capri Town and often swamped by tourists. Anacapri, or upper Capri, is the elevated western half of the island. Capri has a rugged topography of cliffs and chasms, often treacherous, and about three quarters of the island is virtual wilderness. Cars are not allowed, only porter buggies, taxis and buses. Capri's most colourful square is Piazza Umberto, which is a great place to watch the many rich, famous and "beautiful" people who holiday on the island. A highlight of Capri is the famous Blue Grotto where boats take tourists on ten minute journeys through translucent caves. The island is very picturesque and dotted with ancient ruins. However, Capri is also a playground for the rich and famous with prices to match.

There are no holiday visa or travel time restrictions on EU, British and Irish citizens as long as a valid passport is available. Americans, Canadians, Australians and New Zealanders can only travel up to three months in Italy without appropriate paperwork for an extended stay.

Different visas requirements apply to other nationalities.

Italy has reciprocal health services with all other EU countries and with Australia. Vaccinations aren't required but it's worth taking some insect repellent to ward off mosquitoes, particularly during summer.

Italy has a socialised medical system which allows almost anyone to walk into a public hospital and be treated or issued a prescription without charge and without the need for travel insurance.

If an injury or illness should disrupt your holiday in Italy, the country has well-qualified staff at numerous pharmacies (farmacia) and every town or village has a doctor (medico).

If you're an EU citizen, make sure you have a form E111 so you can get free treatment and cheap medicines while you travel in Italy.

The telephone number for emergency medical assistance is 113.

A 2004 survey by Reader's Digest of 19 European nations found the favourite was Italy, with a majority of Europeans saying it has the best food, the sexiest people and is the country where they would most like to live. Rome and London shared the second highest vote as Europe's favourite city.

As is the want of Mediterranean people, Italians uniformly enjoy a midday siesta... if you travel through Italy, keep that in mind when you plan your daily timetable.

You might also notice that many people still enjoy an en masse evening stroll.

Catholic family values are the social concrete of Italy and religion remains dominant. Italy has had one of the lowest birthrates in the world since the mid 1990s, many women having one baby at most.

Festivals, traditions and rituals are everywhere, every day, and provide an ongoing choice of destinations and events for tourists to enjoy in cities and towns across the country.

Regional cultures and loyalties remain strong in Italy and there are different income levels, cuisines and dialects in different areas.

The landscape is similarly diverse, most northern regions dominated by the Italian Alps or the Dolomites and the middle spine of Italy comprising the Apennines. The Dolomite mountain range has been dubbed the most beautiful in the world. About 1300 kilometres of trails through the Dolomites make up what is the largest ski area in the world. A single microchip pass gives access to 450 lifts and 1200 kilometers of slopes in and around 45 villages. The town of Cortina d'Ampezzo is reputed to be the most beautiful ski centre in Europe (five ski areas with more than 140 kilometres of slopes, almost 50% of which are beginner runs).

Take note that a dialect of German is the language spoken in various villages and towns in the far north of Italy.

To exchange money during your holiday in Italy, the best rate is usually found at banks.

You can also exchange money at hotels or at train station bureaux, but the rate is poor compared to banks.

Most but not all Italian banks are open Monday to Friday from 8.30am to 1pm and for an hour in the mid-afternoon.

All tourists have their own preferences but the most convenient way to travel around Italy is by train.

Italian trains are among the cheapest in Europe and are usually efficient, at least in the north of Italy.

Travel tip ... Italy's train service can be a little confusing if you arrive at a station without first investigating the eight different train services operated by Italian State Railways.

Several private rail services also operate in Italy using different stations.

Reservations are required or recommended on some of the faster long distance trains, particularly during summer.

Buses, on the other hand, are often slow and unreliable over long distances and in out-of-the-way places where you'd like to travel in Italy.

If you choose to hire a car and travel the countryside on an autostrada, just remember that the one thing demanded by all other surrounding drivers is that you put your foot down and go fast.

The A1 from Rome through Tuscany is regarded by many to be the most picturesque motorway in the world.

It's worth noting that trucks are not allowed on Italy's motorways on Sundays unless carrying perishables, so the traffic flows a little smoother.

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On-the-spot fines are issued if you fail to stamp your ticket at one of the yellow validating machines found on station platforms.

Rail passes such as Eurail are invaluable for a holiday involving plenty of train trips in Italy because they allow unlimited travel on the FS train network with a fairly cheap surcharge for faster trains.

A 50% ticket discount applies for children up to 12 and train travel in Italy is free for children under 4.

Ferry services are available for all the Italian islands and surrounding countries. Brindisi is a major ferry port in the south of Italy.

Beware that travel services in Italy are often reduced or eliminated on Sundays.

Driving a rental car for your holiday in Italy can be enjoyable in regional areas, although most motorways are toll-roads, rental cars and fuel are expensive, and the challenges of driving and parking in major Italian cities can be daunting for inexperienced tourists.

Italians drive on the right and mostly give way to the right.

Keep a close eye on your possessions if you travel through poor areas of Italy as theft can be rampant.

Italians have a tendency to speak their minds and make their feelings clear, so be prepared for an emotional rollercoaster.

Travel tip ... if you're a woman seeking a romantic rendezvous in Italy, it might be worth noting a 2005 survey that found 80% of Italian men aged between 18 and 30 still live with their parents.

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Be aware that Italy is a very popular holiday destination for international tourists from around the world so it's advisable to book your hotel room ahead of time, particularly if you plan to travel in Italy during the summer months.

Youth hostels are a cost-effective and pleasant way for single travellers to holiday in Italy with cheap accommodation. Keep an eye out for what are known as "agriturismo apartments" as these are much cheaper than hotels and have cooking facilities.

Wherever you travel in Italy, also keep an eye out for cheap rooms in religious convents. For example, normal hotel rooms can cost hundreds of dollars per night in central Rome. But various convents in ideal tourist locations have simple but comfortable rooms at a third the price, although they also have strict curfews varying from 10pm to midnight.

Couples might find double room hotel rates are a better deal and can often save on transport costs because of the more convenient location of hotels.

Most public telephones in Italy have clear written English instructions. It's advisable to buy a telephone card if you intend making a lot of calls during your holiday travel as coin-operated machines are becoming scarce.

Italian phone tariffs are expensive. Dial 170 if you need an English-speaking operator or 176 for international directories.

Keep your valuables locked away when you travel, wear a money purse, don't wear or display ostentatious wealth, and keep an eye on things like cameras every minute of your holiday in Italy.

Italians are reasonably sober drinkers and, as a result, women can travel alone fairly safely in Italy without taking any more precautions than in countries such as America, Britain or Australia.

If you're fit and want a cheap budget holiday in Italy, consider the pilgrim's road to Rome, or Via Francigena, which for centuries has been the route taken by pilgrims across Europe seeking spiritual redemption at the church of St Peter in Rome. The Via Francigena covers about 950 kilometres starting from Bourg St Pierre near Monginevro in the Swiss Alps and on to Rome through historic northern towns such as Ivrea, Pavia, Fidenza, Aulla, San Miniato, San Quirico d'Orcia and Montefiascone. The route takes in dramatic and ever-changing landscapes of alpine meadows, Tuscan vineyards, ancient towns, ruins and tombs. It is best to pre-book accommodation along the route, although many travellers prefer to book on the way so they can linger for as long as they want at different locations to soak up the history or enjoy some rest from the long walk. Christian faith is the motivation for many who walk the Via Francigena but it's a great way to soak up the "real" Italy for anybody with a good pair of boots.

If you wish to walk through Italy's fertile countryside, it's worth noting that it's legal to be on private farmland without asking permission but it's a crime to take anything from the fields such as a grape or a fig.

Italy has an above average risk of terrorist attacks in big cities and tourist areas, although security has tightened markedly since the Madrid train bombings in March 2004.

Industrial action is common in Italy and can disrupt the travel plans of tourists. For advice on planned strike action in Italy, see Summer in Italy.

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